A bit of history
The castle from its origins to the present day
The oldest chronicles, dating back to the 12th century, report that Emperor Henry V, during his descent to Rome in 1110, had to conquer Pontremoli, which blocked his passage. The village is described as follows: “inde castra movens Appenninum trascendit, oppidumque, quod Pons Tremulus vocatur, natura locorum et altissimis turribus munitum, transitus prohibens, expugnavit et coepit” meaning that the emperor overcame the natural defenses of Pontremoli, characterized by its high towers, which blocked the passage. The strategic importance of Pontremoli was also highlighted by Frederick II in a letter dated 1247, addressed to his son King Enzo of Sardinia, where he described Pontremoli as the only key and gateway (clavis et ianua) to access Tuscany. Several centuries later, the castle and the village made a similar impression on the troops of Charles VIII, who, at the end of the 15th century, passed through Pontremoli and devastated it. A chronicler accompanying them described the town as follows: “et est a l’entrée des montagnes. La ville et le chateau estoient assez bons et en fort païs. S’il y eust bon et grand nombre de gens, elle n’eust point esté prise,” meaning that the town and the castle were in a good and fortified position, but if there had been a good number of people defending it, it would not have been taken.
Originally part of the Obertenghi territories, Pontremoli established itself as a free commune in the 12th century but was influenced by the Malaspina family and the neighboring major communes of Piacenza and Parma. In the early 14th century, Pontremoli lost its autonomy and Emperor Henry VII granted it as a fiefdom to the Fieschi family. Since then, Pontremoli and its castle changed hands among different lords until it became the property of the Spanish sovereigns (1556-1647), then ceded to the Republic of Genoa (1647), and finally to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany (1650) along with other Lunigiana territories. The architectural complex of the Piagnaro Castle is characterized by an imposing keep located at the highest point of the fortification, dominating the entire structure. It is a large tower with a composite base consisting of a quadrilateral associated with a semicircle. The keep, with its curved exterior surface, stands about 20 meters high and was originally accessible through a small door located on the southern facade, about 10 meters above the ground. The door could be reached via a wooden structure, no longer existing today, and was protected by a drawbridge, of which traces of the housing can still be seen in the masonry. Some historical elements suggest that the keep dates back to the early 15th century when Niccolò Piccinino became the lord of Pontremoli.
Indeed, the Chronicles of Antonio Cesena, written in 1558, reveal that the construction of the keep in Varese, which had a similar structure to that of Piagnaro, was carried out by Piccinino, who summoned the “magistri” [Niccolò Piccinino] responsible for building the keep in Pontremoli to come to Varese and construct a fortification there. Cesena’s account states: “He immediately brought from Val de Taro and Lunigiana demolishers and master builders, and had a large number of kilns built for lime, and had our tower in Varese built by those same master builders whom he had brought for this purpose, and who had recently built the tower of Piagnaro Castle in Pontremoli.” The structural model that unites the two works in Pontremoli and Varese finds ample references in European fortified architecture of the first half of the 15th century, particularly in the French “beak-shaped” towers of Issoudun (Indre) and Roche-Guyon (Val-d’Oise).
Underneath the keep, there is a small quadrilateral courtyard, bounded to the west by the late medieval curtain wall and to the south and east by a large building in an “L” shape, which is the result of merging multiple structures from different construction phases. On the west side, the building takes advantage of the existing curtain wall, which is equipped with a cylindrical flanking tower. The internal distribution characteristics suggest that this large building was originally used as barracks, as evidenced by some 18th-century floor plans. It is likely that the garrison of the castle, mentioned in a document dating back to 1431 and consisting of 25 men including crossbowmen and shield bearers, was housed in these areas.
According to tradition, the ground floors of the complex housed the prisons, and in these rooms, the primitive sanitary facilities, known as “necessari,” are still well preserved today. The structure also preserves evident traces of our century, especially in the upper floors, when schools and residential apartments were created inside.
Leaving this space you have access to another courtyard, larger, through a paved ramp surmounted by a portal, built in the mid-eighteenth century. On the northern side of the courtyard, there is the chapel, which underwent renovations, probably in the 18th century. On the western side, there is a long building arranged on two levels. Along with the keep, this building represents one of the oldest structures of the castle and currently houses the Museum of Stele Statues. The openings facing the courtyard show signs of alterations and renovations, while near the chapel, on the first floor, there is a Gothic arch with a blocked opening. Il portale suggerisce una datazione risalente ai secoli XIV-XV. The main entrance to the castle leads, through an entrance hall, into this building, from which it is possible to enter the courtyard directly via a vaulted corridor. An emphatic stone decoration adorns this passage.
The courtyard, which houses a sandstone well, is bordered on the southern and eastern sides by a curtain wall with a walkway, which has eighteenth-century renovations. The base of the curtain, with shoe, was built with a precise masonry technique not unlike that used in the construction of the keep. This structure too could have been built by Piccinino, although there is an addition on the eastern side, including a defensive structure with a corner guardhouse, probably dating back to the 18th century.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the defenses of the castle were reorganized and studied to resist assaults from various directions. As in most complex fortified works, the fortress is divided into defensive structures defined, according to custom, with the names of saints. Eighteenth-century plans indicate the “Opera di San Giuseppe” to the north, adjacent to the keep, while the south-east corner is defended by the “Bastione di San Cosimo”; finally, guarding the western front, is the “Opera di San Giovanni Battista”.
The overall image of the castle, always vigilant over the city, is still today characterized by the grayness of its stones and the piagne, stone slabs used in the roof which, according to tradition, have given the castle the name of Piagnaro. Specific studies have not yet been conducted on the origin of the toponym, but we know that the fortification is already mentioned in the Annali Ghibellini Piacentini of 1262 as “planele” and in 1329 in the Annali Parmensi as ” fortilitia que dicitur Pianorium”. According to the historian Manfredo Giuliani, the origin of the toponym derives from the nature of the rock in place, used for the construction of the roofing slabs. The history of the castle structure is closely connected to the military events suffered over the centuries, characterized by continuous demolitions and reconstructions; specific studies and researches will perhaps be able to favor the knowledge of the modifications that have taken place over the centuries.
Bibliography
Ambrosi A.C. Viaggio di studio ai Castelli della Lunigiana, Massa, 8-9-10 maggio 1965, La Spezia, 1965, pp.64-67.
Benelli G., Il Castello del Piagnaro, in Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianesi, La Spezia, 199, pp.7-8.
Castelli di Lunigiana, Pontremoli, 1927,pp. 5-8.
Cesena A., Relatione dell’origine et successi delle terra di Varese descritta dal r.p. Antonio Cesena l’anno 1558, in “Studi e Documenti di Lunigiana”, VI, Accademia lunigianese di Scienze Giovanni Cappellini, La Spezia, 1982.
Principe I., Fortificazioni e città nella Toscana lorenese, Vibo Valenzia, 1988, p. 67.
Rapetti C., L’alta Val di Magra: Pontremoli e i valichi appenninici, in Castelli e fortificazioni della provincia di Massa-Carrara, Massa, 1996, pp.19-38.
Warren, O., Raccolta di piante delle principali città e fortezze del Gran Ducato di Toscana levate d’ordine di Sua Maestà Imperiale sotto la direzione del S.R.e Odoardo Warren colonnello del battaglione d’artiglieria e direttor generale delle fortificazioni di Toscana, 1749, ediz. Studio per edizioni scelte S.P.E.S., Firenze, 1991.
Zucchi Castellini N., Il Castello del Piagnaro a Pontremoli, in “Archivio Storico per le Province Parmensi” quarta serie, vol. XXVIII (1975).
Zucchi Castellini N., Castelli ed armi le Difese Attive e Passive dell’Antico Borgo, in Donini R., …Pontremoli oggi…, Roma, 1991, pp.153-160.
–
Taken from ‘N. Gallo – Guida storico-architettonica dei castelli della Lunigiana toscana – Istituto Valorizzazione Castelli, Prato 2002.
More in this section:



