In the Middle Ages, Pontremoli was defined as the “sole key and gateway to Tuscany.” It was a free municipality, a noble city of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, and an Episcopal See. Pontremoli is an important center in historical Lunigiana, rich in history, culture, and traditions. The name of the city may derive from the presence of a “pons tremulus,” a trembling bridge, not only because it was made of wood but also because it was subject to destruction due to the frequent floods of the Magra River. The territory of the Municipality of Pontremoli is vast, covering an area of 182 square kilometers, making it one of the largest municipalities in Italy. It extends at the foot of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, at the northernmost part of the Tuscan Lunigiana, and connects to neighboring valleys through the Apennine passes of Cisa, Borgallo, Bratello, and Cirone.

The historic center is located at about 250 meters above sea level in a wide basin that opens to the territories of the Magra River and the Verde and Gordana streams. It developed in ancient times within the limits delimited by the strip of land between the Magra River and the Verde stream, dominated by the Piagnaro Castle, from Porta Parma to the north to the confluence of the two rivers, and then expanded from the 12th century onwards on the southern bank of the Magra until Porta Fiorentina. Only in the second half of the 20th century did the settlement expand into the vast plain on the right bank of the Verde, called Verdeno. Throughout the centuries, Pontremoli has been a crossroads of ancient routes and a strategic hub on the connecting routes between the Po Valley, Liguria, and central Italy. Its connecting position, adjacent to the Apennines and between different regions, has been and still is a defining element, allowing easy access to important tourist destinations such as the Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets, the Apuan Alps, Versilia, or cities like Lucca, Pisa, Parma, Florence, Genoa, and Milan.

Mentioned for the first time around 990 AD in the famous itinerary of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Sigeric, as stop number XXXI on the Via Francigena, which connected England to Rome (and vice versa), Pontremoli experienced significant development during the communal period in which it maintained its independence and had its territory recognized by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. It was contested by various Italian lordships for a long time. Due to its strategic importance, after changing hands several times, Pontremoli became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1650 and enjoyed a long period of political stability and economic prosperity, leading to the complete reconstruction of the ancient village (which had been devastated by the fire set by Charles VIII’s troops in 1495). This is evidenced by the numerous noble palaces, the Cathedral, and the numerous churches (rich in artistic treasures) scattered throughout the historic center. After coming under French domination in the late 1700s, Pontremoli returned to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1815 and then passed under the Duchy of Parma in 1847 until the Unification of Italy.

Pontremoli is also known as the “City of the Book” thanks to the prestigious Bancarella Literary Prize, which was established in 1952 and is still awarded today by the Association of Pontremoli Booksellers.

Two walks in the historic center

Ideally, the itinerary can begin in the heart of the city, at Piazza della Repubblica, where the Tourist Information Point is located. The large rectangular square, bordered by the Palazzo del Comune, the Tribunale, and the Pavesi and Bocconi palaces, is dominated by the Campanone, an enormous tower standing 36 meters high. It was once the central part of the imposing fortress of Cacciaguerra, built by Castruccio Castracani in 1322, later raised and transformed into the current bell tower. The adjacent Piazza del Duomo is dominated by the majestic marble facade of the Cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, which protected the city from plagues in the early 17th century. This event is commemorated every year on July 2nd with a grand religious celebration. Construction of the Duomo, built as a result of the perpetual vow made to the Virgin in 1630, began in 1636 and extended until the completion of the facade in 1881. The Latin cross interior is in Baroque style, with the apse and presbytery adorned with golden stucco dating back to the 18th century. The niche in the center of the apse houses the 13th-century wooden statue of the Virgin on a throne with the Child, venerated as the Madonna del Popolo. The church, which became a cathedral after the erection of the Diocese in 1787, houses numerous valuable 18th-century paintings dedicated to the Virgin. On the other side of the square is the Episcopal Palace, which also houses the Diocesan Museum. Continuing north along Via Garibaldi, you will encounter two of the city’s oldest churches. San Geminiano, dedicated to the patron saint of Pontremoli, overlooks the homonymous small square. Its foundation dates back to the 11th century. Inside, you can find a medieval sandstone roundel depicting the blessing Christ and a stunning wooden statue of Christ ascending to Calvary, created in the 17th century. A little further on is the church of San Nicolò, which was originally oriented in the opposite direction to its current layout. Notable inside is the statue of the Black Christ. The bronze portal adorned with numerous panels depicting scenes from the city’s history is worth admiring. The village continues between two uninterrupted rows of palaces until reaching Porta Parma, the ancient fortified entrance and main access to the city from the north. By ascending the narrow and steep streets (known as “surchèti”) or the staircases of the Borgo del Piagnaro, the oldest nucleus of the settlement, you will soon reach the majestic Castello del Piagnaro, which dominates the city and now houses the Museum of Stele Statues. Returning from the castle towards the city center, along a very suggestive path, you can reach the medieval bridge of San Francesco di sopra, also known as “della Crësa.”

Beyond the bridge, right by the Verde River, begins the “dei Chiosi” walkway that leads to Villa Dosi Delfini. At the beginning of the bridge, you can instead descend a small staircase and walk south along the bank of the Verde River until reaching the Parco della Torre, dominated by another majestic medieval bridge, the San Francesco di sotto, also known as Ponte Stemma. At the end of this bridge stands the Torre dei Seratti, once closed by the homonymous gate. This area, where the two rivers converge, is also accessible through the village, passing through the squares and Via Ricci Armani, until reaching the pedestrian area of Via Cavour. From there, it is also possible to deviate towards the Jubilee Bridge, an ancient crossing over the Magra River, rebuilt in 2000, to reach the 14th-century tower of Castelnuovo, accompanied by the oratory of Nostra Donna and the 18th-century Teatro della Rosa. From there, you can also see the daring 19th-century bridge of the Four Saints (San Geminiano, San Zita, San Francesco d’Assisi, San Francesco Fogolla). Continuing along the village, hidden among the houses, you catch a glimpse of the parish church of Santa Cristina. Then you can admire numerous noble palaces, including Palazzo Petrucci, Palazzo Negri, and Palazzo Damiani, as well as the churches of San Giacomo del Campo, with the adjacent Museum of Mercy, and San Giacomo D’Altopascio. At the southern end of the city is the Church of San Pietro, which houses the famous labyrinth carved in the 12th century, miraculously spared from the bombings of the last World War. Just beyond, there used to be the southern gate of Pontremoli, Porta Fiorentina, which was demolished in the mid-19th century.